An 11-hour bus ride took us across the Straight of Magellan by ferry, then “stamped out” of Chile an hour before the border crossing into Argentina, on our way to Ushuaia. Tierra del Fuego is the largest island of the Magallenas and is shared by Chile and Argentina. This makes this territory of Argentina disconnected from its mainland. At the border, we are reminded that of the destruction to Tierra del Fuego’s delicate ecosystem caused by the beaver…which was introduced by Canada (!)

the final stretch into Ushuaia was incredibly scenic, reminding us of home:

USHUAIA

also known as the city at the end of the world, incredibly beautiful setting on the Beagle Channel, and the port for cruises around the continent’s Cape Horn and to Antarctica.

Our first day here was largely taken up by 2 activities, one unexpected and one expected and necessary for Argentina. The first was navigating the excellent medical system for M to obtain an x-ray of her foot. This involved a consultation with a doctor, then an X-ray, then another consultation for results. The first two went quickly, followed by about an hour’s wait for the results due to “siesta” (yes, even in a hospital). All is paid for in cash, which leads to the next issue.

Argentina has since the 1970’s been a high inflation economy, with hyperinflation for the past 10 years (5-10% per month)! It is also a cash economy where paying with ‘effectivo’ (cash) is typically discounted. There are 2 exchange rates: the official (red book) which is used for credit cards, ATMs, and banks/money changers. The unofficial (blue book) exchange rate is by sending money to yourself via Western Union, and yields about 30% more pesos at this time. It was closer to 45% last year. So most people make regular visits to WU, that are located in most every town, but sometimes have limits on how much you can obtain on any day (and may be as little as $180 cdn). Now imagine this: you are going to pay with cash for everything – groceries, clothing, entertainment, electronics, car rentals, tours/activities, even flights and medical treatment – but the largest bill in circulation (2000 pesos) is worth 2 dollars. So you are constantly carrying around massive wads of paper money and counting out 25,000 for a lunch bill, or 135,000 for a medical service or an airfare in order to not pay 30% more for the ‘convenience’ of a credit card (where accepted as many places are cash only). If you charge pesos on your credit card, you will also pay an additional 18% VAT which is avoided with cash. Argentinians make it work and the younger generation (store clerks, grocery checkers, servers, guides, etc) tell us that they have grown up with counting out large sums of cash as normal practice.

Tierra del Fuego National Park

Due to M’s ‘ice & ibuprofen’ protocol, we traded in our planned mountain climb for a few shorter hikes/walks in this park. The coastal terrain was stunning and as we rented a car, we could easily access each trailhead. The first was at the very end of Pan-American highway (Ruta 3 in Argentina); the second through the peat bog after a coffee break at the visitor centre; the third along the coastal path from the post office at the end of the world (still operational).

Estancia Haberton

A 90-minute drive out of Ushuaia took us to the oldest ranch in Tierra del Fuego. Started as an Anglican mission, it became a fully functional homestead when the rector brought his wife from England and started a family. When Ushuaia became more populated, the ranch served as a shelter for displaced aboriginal people. Until more recently, the ranch also sheared sheep and built boats. Later, the wife of the grandson started a marine mammals research and science centre which continues to operate and houses one of the largest collections of bones anywhere. Students from various faculties do field studies and serve as guides to visitors. The ranch has added a house for the current great granddaughters, has one of the largest fruit & vegetable gardens, rents out a few cottages, and is the place for tea & cakes. In the photos, the current grandson of the original Tommy (also named Tommy), at age 92 is getting assistance from staff and our small group to prevent rolling his tractor down a steep slope.

Pingüinos !

Our most southerly point would be on a boat to see one of the largest colonies of penguins outside Antarctica on a preserved island in the east part of the Beagle Channel. There are 3 types of penguins on the island – Magellan, King, and Gentoo. On the way, we circled the “Lighthouse at the End of the World” and saw the cormorants and sea lions that were hanging out on these rocks.

…and a couple of videos…

End of the World Prison

Established as a prison to (involuntarily) populate Tierra del Fuego as Argentina and Chile were disputing territorial rights. It also housed political prisoners and those with infectious diseases. It is now a prison museum under the auspices of the naval academy. The prisoners built the railroad, roads, and hospital in Ushuaia. The current museum also pays homage to prisons all over the world and to the policing system in Argentina.

Next up has us slowly moving northwards through Argentinian Patagonia…